I Think I'm Turning Japanese
 
Hanging out with Auntie Tita is like living in a comedy. This weekend there were endless amounts of quotable moments and video-worthy incidents, including getting attacked by deer. So let's start from the beginning!

Tita came in through KIX from Manila on Friday night. I took the Kansai Airport Limousine to meet her. Sounds fancy, right? It's not. It's a total misnomer. It should be called "Kansai Airport Crapbus." But it got me there quickly, so that's good.

It was already late, but I was hoping things would be open so I could show her some shops and some sights. Santica and Motomachi was closing up by the time we got there, and Chinatown was dead, so we made our way to Harborland and got "hamburgers." In Japan, this means a hamburger patty and rice with some gravy on top, kind of like a Moco Loco minus the Loco. We took in the beautiful view of the harbor all lit up at night, and then we made our way back to Gak to sleep.

Saturday morning we went to check out Tsurukabato Elementary School's music festival. It was really cute! I was a little bummed that we didn't get to tour the classrooms like we did at JHS bunkasai, but it was nice to be able to bring Tita to one of my places of work. Then we headed to the Maya Cable Car to explore Mt. Maya, which I thought was Mt. Rokko, but turns out it's right next to it. Shows what I know. Getting to the cable car required a bit of an uphill walk. It was nothing like my walk up the Hill of Death that leads to my JHS, but it was still some sweaty times. We got on the cable car, which climbs up the really steep part of the mountain. It was really cool to see some of the trees had already started changing into their beautiful fall colors. Though, for the most part, things are still pretty green. Halfway up the mountain, we had to transfer to the ropeway, which is basically like a gondola. The view was amazing! You could see pretty much all of Kobe and some of Osaka. Luckily it was a nice sunny day so visibility was awesome.

Once we were on the top of Mt. Maya, we took a bus to Rokkosan Pasture. It's basically a farm, where sheep run amok. It was a really beautiful landscape, and didn't feel like we were in Japan at all. From some of the hills, when you looked around, it kind of felt like you were in Auburn in the fall. The smell of horses helped, too. We walked around and saw some baby animals and the rabbit area. There I learned that I am really allergic to angora rabbits. I pet some of the fur and my eyes and lips got really puffy and itchy a little bit later. Ew. Well, at least I know now that I don't have to go wasting my money on any expensive angora sweaters! (Always look on the bright side of life!) There were machines everwhere so you could buy pellets to feed the sheep and the goats. Have you ever been up to close to a sheep? They are kind of terrifying. There's a reason why a disturbing movie was named after them. They have these weird bulgey eyes with slits for pupils, and the can be very aggressive (not as aggressive as the deer in Nara... keep reading for that). Plus, even though they have fluffy wool coats, they are really dirty! Have I just become a farm animal snob?

After the goat feeding, we went to this building that was called the Cheese Castle where they make a lot of their own cheese, presumably from the sheep, goats and cows they have on that farm. I got to sample a bunch of the delicious cheeses, but didn't buy any since I knew we would be walking around for a while and warm cheese that's been in your purse all day is just gross! We hung out at the Cheese Castle for a little bit before heading back to the ropeway. The view going down the ropeway and the cable car was awesome! The light had shifted a little bit since it was later in the day, and all the treetops took on a more orange glow.

After Mt. Maya we were pretty tired, but I wanted to take Auntie Tita to some of the shops. We went to Loft and she had a ball at the 4th floor sticker mecca. Seriously, it is a sticker persons' fantasayland come to life! I had gone there a couple months ago, but the stickers must change by season because they had a whole section of Christmas stickers. If I hadn't been strengthening my willpower so much in Japan, I would have bought out the entire store! I managed to walk away with only spending a few hundred yen.

After Loft, I took Auntie Tita to ishi-yaki. I think all ishi-yaki must be about the same, but since I knew Issian was so delicious in Tokyo, I decided to hunt down the Kobe location. We ordered far less than Dan and I did, and since Tita doesn't drink, we stuck to water. Definitely didn't feel as gluttonous this time around! We ordered the chicken skin, chicken breast, maguro, risotto-style rice, seaweed salad, and "supreme beef." The latter was the melty fatty amazingness that I had written about before. It turns out, it was Kobe beef! It's called something else here (I can't remember what and I am too lazy to look it up), though. I have had Kobe beef without even knowing it! Highly recommended.

After Issian, we got some Haagen-Dazs and ate it at Tits Park. I guess I have been getting used to the smaller Japanese portions after Auntie Tita remarked that the scoop was so small! It was still delicious, though, and definitely enough. We were both pretty tired from the day, so we decided to just go home and sleep early.

We woke up after getting to sleep in a little bit. It was kind of a slow morning, but it's not like there was much to rush for. We headed to Deli Bakery Kitchen (I think that's what it's called) for some breakfast, and then we were off to Nara. Nara is about 90 minutes away on the Hanshin line. They are having their 3000th year anniversary (yes, you read that right), and their weird little mascot is Sentokun. Apparently he's kind of offensive to some, as not only is he a cartoon baby Buddha, but he also has deer horns. In Nara you can find Japan's biggest Buddha at Todaiji Temple, which was pretty awesome to see. We saw all sorts of other structures that didn't have any English explanations to them, so I don't know what they were (one being a bell: "Oh, it's like a bong!" "You mean a gong?") Definitely the highlight of the trip, though, was all the deer.

The deer in Nara are aggressive. You can buy little bundles of deer biscuits to feed them, and they are literally EVERYWHERE. You can try to trick them and open your hands and pretend you don't have anymore biscuits, but they will smell them in your bag, and stick their nose in their, or nip at your clothes, and generally follow you around and harrass you endlessly. I was even headbutted in the ass by a male dear whose antlers were just started to come out. It scared the miso out of me! Somehow the deer have even learned to bow to you. The less aggressive deer will approach you hesitantly and bow their heads, and then you give them a biscuit and they bow again and go on to the next person. However, not all of them are as gracious. The funniest was when Tita went to sit down to find her glasses, and two deer surrounded her and almost attacked her. I love that she tried to reason with them using words: "I don't have anything! Go away!" While I was shouting, "Just get up and get away from them!" Instead she just sat there yelping and cowering, which I think spurred the deer on some more. Are deer carnivorous? If so, I'm sure they would have tried to eat her eventually.

The sun started to go down pretty early, so we made our way back to Nara station and took a nap on the train back to Sannomiya. When we got there we found a little restaurant in Center Plaza and had a simple yakitori dinner. We were once again really tired from the day, so we headed back to Gak so Tita could pack called it a night.

Tita woke up really early to catch the bus back to Osaka airport. She left behind a great deal of goodies, though! It was much appreciated. All in all, it was a pretty cool weekend.

I'm looking forward to many more visitors!

 
The above statement is a promise. My Auntie Tita came to visit for the weekend. The short story: we went to Harborland, Mt. Maya, and Nara. We saw things. We ate food. 


I will post a much longer and entertaining story when I'm not as exhausted!
 

Last weekend was Halloween! It felt like it snuck on me fairly quickly, particulary because there wasn't an excess of gaudy Halloween displays in stores and houses and apartments weren't bedecked with fake cobwebs and pumpkins on the front stoop. It kills the child inside just a little bit, I must admit. I also didn't get around to even thinking of what I could dress up as for Halloween.


 A year ago I was sending frantic emails back and forth with friends about our big Halloween plans at the Regency Center in the city, and scouring party supply stores for the perfect accessories for my and Ted's Mario and Luigi costumes.


 This year the extent of my costume shopping involved me running into Tokyo Hands at 8:29 when they closed at 8:30, running up to the non-slutty costume area (which also happened to house a bunch of Christmas costumes... be prepared to see me elaborately dressed as a Christmas tree at all my Holiday parties at home), and grabbing the first costume I could find. The entire process took all of 3 minutes, and within that time I went from "Oh shit, what can I be that doesn't have to be preceeded by the words 'slutty/sexy'" (ie- "Sexy Nemo, slutty robot, sexy horse, slutty pumpkin) to "I'm gonna be a panda!"


I am pleased with my costume decision for many reasons: 1) pandas are ridiculously cute 2) the costume covers my entire body, thus it will keep me warm while my sexy-costumed friends are freezing 3) I can wear it to support Sandoval when I go home to watch Giants games 4) I can probably wear it while skiing and be the coolest person on the slopes. Just you watch.


There weren't any huge plans for the weekend, so most of the JETs went to the Polo Dog in Sannomiya. It was only my second time there, and it was packed. My friend Bridget was DJing, and it's always fun to see the Hanayama and Port Islanders that you don't get to run into every day. Most of the costumes were pretty good, but I have to admit it all felt a bit half-assed to me. Don't get me wrong; it was a hell of a night, but I think the absence of my close friends making me laugh till I had cramps kind of put a damper on the night. Sure, maybe it was homesickness. Anyway, I had a great time, but being claustrophobic and a bit of an old lady these days, I didn't stay much past 11 and managed to make my way home at a decent hour, reeking of cigarettes and Jager. And then I came home to my empty apartment and started thinking about what makes (or should make) Halloween awesome every time.


The greatest thing about Halloween is the blatant disregard for dental hygiene (and possible diabetes), if only for a night. Eat a whole candy bar? Sure. Oh, another? Oh heck, why not! We're celebrating the hallows, right? Oh, and a jawbreaker before bed? What would ghosts and gouls do? They'd say heck yes! And then you're left laying on your bed surrounded by candy wrappers and twitching from the diabetic shock, and your teeth are left to rot over night because you can't get yourself to get out of your panda costume and brush your teeth.
No? Just me?


Ok, I'll be honest, this year that WASN'T me (praise Jeebus), but not necessarily because of sheer willpower. Japan seems to be going through a centuries-long epidemic. It's called "candyreallyisn'tabigdeal-itis." When asking students in class if they like candy, maybe only 3 or 4 kids raise their hands. And when explaining the idea of "trick-or-treat" to them, they have the most confused looks on their faces, because first of all, why are you being so greedy, and second of all, what the shit are you going to do with a bag full of candy? It doesn't make sense. Add that to the fact that candy in the stores is kind of expensive, and you can see why I wasn't able to throw myself into a hyperglycemic coma.


The next best thing about Halloween is having any excuse to scare the pants off anyone, yourself included. We watch scary movies, go to haunted houses, pop out of coffins, have motion-activated Halloween decorations... it's ridiculous! And it works! Although Japan is pretty good at the horror movie thing (see Ringu), the fact that many of my students couldn't grasp why I was talking about scary things made me a bit sad. They just thought Halloween was about jack-o-lanterns and costumes. I had to explain why we first started celebrating Halloween, and how scary things have all become part of the territory. So when I asked my ichi-nensei students to design a scary Halloween character (after showing them many examples and having them all exclaim over how scary they were), I got a whole lot of smiling happy sunshiney anime characters. Where was the blood and the skulls and the rotting carcassiness? 


Le sigh.


Well, at least I am coming to appreciate things more, both at home and here in Japan.


Happy belated Halloween, everyone!
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I was wrong, I guess. Pandas are incredibly sexy.
 
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So I promise to write something more Japan-related, like Halloween and other adventures, but right now, I must focus on the subject at hand:

THE GIANTS WON THE WORLD SERIES!

I am so happy that I am sitting at work breaking the rules by blogging just so I can rejoice. This happens to come within the same week as my new nephew, Everett Weston, being born. My brother must be absolutely dilirious with happiness!

Congrats to SF and everyone who has devoted years to the team! :-)

Giants!

10/23/2010

 
So the bad taste in my mouth (see previous entry) has been replaced by the sweet taste of victory!


The Giants beat the Phillies today @ Philly, which makes things even sweeter. It was game 6 and was looking pretty exciting, but watching from Japan just means seeing a pitch-by-pitch cartoon rather than streaming video, so I just couldn't wait to get it over with! We won 3-2, which means we are the National League champs and facing off against the Rangers in our first World Series since 1989. That was the "Battle of the Bay," for those of you who don't follow baseball, where SF played the Oakland A's just across the bay. There was a huge earthquake (the famous Loma Prieta quake) in the middle of the series. SF lost. The last time we won a series was in the 50's. So needless to say, we don't have the best of luck when it comes to the World Series, so this is just a small moment of well deserved happiness for the boys in orange and black after years of terrible records and steroid scandals. So let me just have this little moment, okay? :-)


Of course, I am kind of bitter that the best season they've had in recent years has to end while I'm in Japan. It's so hard to keep up with the mayhem with Facebook being my only way to partake in any celebration! No one in Japan really cares about American baseball! So sad I can't be there.


At any rate, I am super excited, and congrats to the Giants and good luck next week! SO EXCITED I CAN'T TURN OFF MY CAPS!
 
What in the Heidi Klum in lederhosen hell did I just eat?


So I woke up this morning a bit woozy from last night's enkai and nijikai celebrating Culture Fest. The Giants are playing game 6 at Philly, so I wanted to be sure I can watch that, so my plans for the day included not moving from my mattress and laying with my laptop rooting for the boys in orange in black. But I was STARVING. I had drunkenly eaten all my potstickers last night while Skyping after catching the last train home. All I had were ingredients to cook something really yummy, but in my impatience I didn't want to have to wait that long. So at the bottom of the 6th I jogged down the McDonalds down the street in hopes of picking up a McGriddle, which I used to think was gross but suddenly had an intense craving for.


I got there at 11:10, and they'd already switched to the lunch menu. Blech. The rest of the McDonalds menu aside from a McGriddle sounded so gross to me. But then I saw that this month they are offering a special sandwich, called the "German sausage." Interest piqued, I bought a seto and made my way back to the apartment (missing Uribe scoring at the top of the 8th, dang it!).


Immediately upon looking at the box, I regretted my decision. Ew. Sausage in a sandwich? I opened it up to find a Japanese-size sandwich that appeared to have a breaded/fried chicken patty, a slice of round sausage that covered the bottom bun, some cheese, fancy German mustard, and saurkraut. Mein Leben ist beschissen


This salty, krauty, fried mess is exactly as it sounds... a salty, krauty, fried mess. The saurkraut  wasn't even tangy, just cabbagey. And the chicken patty wasn't delightful breast meat, it was clearly a mish mash of thigh parts tossed in a ton of salt and then held together by a breaded monster. But I paid for it, and my stomach was angry, and my laziness superseded any pride or dignity I had in me so early in the day, so I ate the thing. Boo.


Ugh. Just don't try this at home, kids.


I expect a comment on my health and dietary decisions from my mom coming in approximately 3 minutes.
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Yes, I am eating on my bed.

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Stop judging me.

 
As promised, I am going to sing the praises of don katsu, whilst also lambasting it for being what I believe to be the devil's best idea in food form. Before I go on, I need to specify that it's not just all don katsu. Just the particular frozen brand that they sell at my local grocer.

What is don katsu? In short, it is breaded pork. The frozen kind that I am talking about comes in the form of don katsu nuggets, so if this fact disqualifies it from being true don katsu, then sue me. It's just easier than saying "breaded pork nuggets."

I discovered it about a month ago while trolling through Daiei on an empty stomach. I know, you're not supposed to go grocery shopping while your stomach is rumbling, lest you buy out the entire store, but that's the way I operate, people. Anyway, I didn't have anything in particular I needed to buy (another mistake... Suze Orman might have my head), and as I strolled by the frozen veggies section, I caught a whiff of something wonderful cooking. Now, I don't know the schedule of Daiei's sample days, but they always seem to be sampling at the most random times and usually just one random item. I don't know if it's cuz they have a surplus of something and need to desperately get rid of it, or maybe they have too many employees clocked in that day and someone needed something to do. At any rate, the wonderful cooking smell was that of the don katsu wafting from the little microwave oven. It didn't particularly look appetizing, but the lady was so adorably happy to be offering her tray of samples, so I took one, bowed in thanks, and popped it into my mouth.

Taste explosion!

I had already been thinking that maybe I'll pick up a package (¥348, what a steal!), since the delightul sample lady looked so hopeful and I felt I might be rude to just eat a sample and walk away. Which is weird, because in America I have no qualms about going to Costco and binge eating at all the different sample stations.

Well, after the taste explosion, I picked up a pack not out of obligation but out of sheer NEED. In the back of my head was a little voice that said, "Dude, you're just hungry, it really wasn't THAT tasty," but in the front of my head (nobody ever talks about that part), a much louder, nasal, inescapable voice scramed, "BUY TWENTY PACKAGES AND EAT AT LEAST 10 IN ONE SITTING! DON'T WORRY ABOUT YOUR MOM BERATING YOU ON WEEBLY AND/OR FACEBOOK FOR NOT EATING HEALTHIER AND NEEDING TO EAT MORE VEGGIES! YOU'RE A GROWN WOMAN!" I listened to that voice because I was afraid of what it might do if I didn't. Although, I didn't buy the 20 packages because I only had ¥10,000 in my pocket, and the same front-of-head voice would be angry if I didn't set aside some money for broccoli and cheese.

So that is the basic story of how I first got started on frozen don katsu. Since then, I have blown through about 2 packages a week, but it's not as crazy as it sounds, since there are only about 8 or 9 nuggets in each deceptively small package.

So now, a food review:

The Good

It is ridiculously delicious. It's easy to make. It's cheap. It brings out my eyes.

The Bad

I feel like it has me possessed. There have been nights when I've been lying in bed thinking, "I should pack some for lunch tommorrow. But maybe I can't wait till tomorrow. Maybe I should have some now. I didn't really eat dinner anyway." Then I check the freezer, and I am all out, and the devil laughs.

Also, it's pork. I have been endlessly lectured about how pork is bad for you, it exacerbates gout (which I don't have, but it runs in the family, you know), and in some cultures eating pig means going against god = siding with the devil.

It's fried before it's frozen, at least I think it is.

As mentioned above, the package contains very few of what I want (nuggets) and excess of what I don't want (empty space). The devil's work, for sure.



Sometimes I bite into a nugget and half of it is fat. Tasty, tasty fat.

The Ugly

Coupled with Spicy Black Bean Dip from Trader Joe's it is absolutely impossible to turn down. Why's that so ugly? Cuz I have an extremely limited supply of black bean dip, and once this runs out, I might die.

In conclusion, don katsu is probably my favorite go-to quick fix... er... snack when I'm dining at home. Try it. You'll like it. I give it a B for flavor, a B+ for affordability, an F for healthiness, and an A+ for addictiveness.

 
Yesterday I returned from a fun-filled 5-day mini vacation with Dan. In Tokyo! That's right, suckas, Dan was my first visitor in Japan and he set the "Oh my God I'm having so much fun and laughing so hard and eating great food and exploring new places" bar incredibly high. Here is a rundown of the weekend.

Day 1
The Long Wait is Over!

I took the night bus to get to Tokyo, which in itself was an adventure. I had a huge suitcase with me to hold all the goodies that Dan was bringing me from home, so running to the Flower Clock to make it to the night bus was not exactly easy. I also looked slightly crazy, since it was obvious my suitcase was mostly empty, which I'm sure led to passersby wondering why this crazy sweaty gaijin was running down the street in flip flops with a giant archaic looking suitcase dragging behind her. (Have I mentioned that everyone here has shiny hard-case luggage that logically roll in any direction so you don't have to run the risk of looking like a crazy person?)


The night bus was truly a night bus. I was pretty stoked to be riding in what looked like a very cushy (and extremely pink) bus with clean new seats, fleece blankets, foot rests, and stroller-like retractable hoods so bus weirdos don't stare at you when you sleep. However, being stared at by a bus weirdo is not a problem when the night bus starts moving. First of all, they make sure you are off your cell phone. I was in mid-conversation with Dan when I was told to shut off my phone (he was in the middle of playing me "Peaches" by the Presidents of the United States of America, and I think once I started singing along, that was the last straw for the driver). Then they have everyone button the blackout curtains shut, and the driver's helper guy pulls down this huge blackout curtain that cuts off any bit of light seeping from the front of the bus. Forget about having a personal light so you can do some light reading. "You're on the night bus, bitches, and you're gonna sleep." At least that is what I imagine the motto of the night bus is.


Anyway, after my forced sleep, I found myself in Tokyo at 6 am. Being there before the city starts moving is like a scene out of I am Legend. I kept waiting for a zombie to pop out and try to eat me on my way to the subway station, but all I saw was the odd homeless man (sleeping on brand new cardboard boxes... Tokyo vagrants have it made) or gaijin jogger. I finally made it to the hotel to check my luggage behind the counter and charge my phone in the lobby, and then I was off to explore the city until Dan's flight came in. 

I wasn't really sure where to go, so I decided to just head in the direction of Narita and get off at a big stop. I ended up going to the Shoji Temple in Asakusa. The marketplace leading up to the temple is absolutely huge, full of all the stuff you know you don't need but you buy anyway. I exhibited remarkable self-control here.
After that, I decided I'd get to the airport early, which was a good decision because it ended up taking about thirty minutes longer than anticipated. Subway maps are deceiving! When I got to Narita, Dan's flight still had half an hour until landing, but I still stood by the arrival gate bouncing up and down for over an hour. Finally, I caught a glimpse of his face in the crowd, and I couldn't help but give a little yelp of excitement. I didn't care if I got stared at (at home, I would have fully screamed and tackled him, but I had to show restraint after seeing that the most excited people were getting was an excited and silent wave). DAN WAS FINALLY HERE! I was pretty close to crying out of happiness, but again... self control.

It took us quite a while to get back to the hotel, and Dan was so tired that I wished we had a teleporter to get there instantly. Instead, it took almost two hours, and by then Dan had been traveling for something like 17 hours, and immediately crashed as soon as we got into the hotel. So this left me with a connundrum, because I wanted to go out and do stuff, but I didn't want to go alone. I opted to go get a beef bowl somewhere. That is when Google Maps played an evil trick on me.

It guided me through a narrow alley to the nearest Yoshinoya. About two blocks into the alley, I notice that the hotels were extremely close together, and big groups of the "pretty" Tokyo men in their all-black attire and crazy hair were gathered at every corner handing out cards. When I looked at the sign for one of the hotels that boasted a "rest" (1 hour) or a "stay" (overnight), it dawned on me: I was in the red light district. I felt safe, though, as it was clean and well lit and I saw a lot of other people out. It was still early though, so I booked it to Yoshinoya and back to the hotel as fast as I could.

I had to eat my beef bowl in silence so I wouldn't wake Dan up. Then I decided it would be a good time to sleep... so I did. Anticlimactic, I know, but that's pretty much how the day ended.

Day 2
Disney Sea Adventure! Or: It's Raining and I'm Tired and These Lines Are Way Too Long and if I Get Hit in the Face With an Umbrella One More Time I'm Gonna Scream


We decided to go out to Disneyland and try out Disney Sea, since we could always go to regular Disneyland at home. In my mind, I figured since it was forecasted to rain, it would drive away the crowds and we would be able to walk right onto several rides. The complete opposite was true. It was a holiday weekend, so the crowds were probably doubled, and because people were most likely traveling from far away, it was Disney Sea or bust, dammit! So those who weren't decked out in a Disney poncho had umbrellas. Imagine walking in a sea of people all about your height carrying an umbrella. Face! Face! Face! That is the sound of my face getting bashed with an umbrella. Again. There is no real flow to how people are moving, either. Just a big mash of people walking fast, or standing in random clusters, or walking the opposite way of the crowd like a salmon swimming upstream (weilding an umbrella). You get my point?

So, aside from being soaked from the first hour we arrived and dealing with the ridiculous crowds, Disney Sea has an incredible ambiance. They did an amazing job transforming each section to really feel like you were somewhere else. You walk into what feels like Venice (but much cleaner and not smelling like sewage). The rides were touted as being more "grown up" than Disneyland, but I feel like they are much the same. The roller coaster with the loop was a little disappointing, but it was okay since Dan and I discovered there was a singles line and we could skip the hour and a half wait and practically walk on the ride! The same goes for Indiana Jones. We bypassed everyone in line and practically walked on. However, from there it was a bit harder to get on rides. At one point, we checked the line at Tower of Terror and it was FOUR HOURS. FOUR! So we said "iie" to that and "hai" to more beers! We found out that the least crowded eatery was the Mexican food place, and for good reason. This was not Mexican food! You do not put teriyaki chicken in a "tortilla sandwich" and call it Mexican! So yeah, the food was sorely disappointing, but biiru made up for it. We moved on to ride smaller rides with less lines, like Aquatopia (so silly, good thing we had biiru) and StormChaser (what the heck is happening...). We kept waiting for Journey to the Center of the Earth to open, which Dan had wanted to go on since the second we got to Disney Sea. But first, the line was really long, then it was shut down indefinitely. Sad face. We never got to go. We did get to go to 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, which was kind of cool but also pretty child-like, and we wrapped up the day with Tower of Terror, whose line was reduced to only two hours. It was a pretty good ride though! The story is completely different than Disney World's Twiglight Zone story, and I don't remember it being that much fun! All in all, it was a great time. Yes, my feet were pruny and cold all day and my back started getting sore from all the walking, but my fun company made up for everything and it was an awesome day!

We did fall asleep on the train home, though, and woke up in an empty car in Tokyo. Oh well. :-)

Day 3
Gonpachi, Imperial Palace, Tokyo Tower, and Issian

We had a bit of a late start to this day, so we skipped breakast. That was probably a mistake, because I started getting a little cranky as we tried to find our way to Gonpachi. I found Gonpachi after Googling "best izakaya," and it is said that it was Quenitin Tarentino's inspiration for the Crazy 88's fight scene in Kill Bill. I figured we had to give it a try! The food was delicious! It was like tapas, trying little bits of stuff here and there. Who knew tempura cherry tomatoes, avacado, and Camembert were so delicious? It was definitely a good decision to come here. Next, we decided to appreciate something culture and head to the Imperial Palace.

By the time we got to the Imperial Palace, we only had half an hour to explore. It was nice and sunny by then, so we took advantage of exploring the gardens before they kicked us out. It made me want to have a koi pond some day! Then it was time for Tokyo Tower.

Tokyo Tower at night presented us with yet another really crowded tourist place. The line just to buy tickets was about 10 minutes, and the line just to get to the elevator was another 20. I thought it would be fun to biiru the line (everything is more fun with biiru), but the combini inside Tokyo Tower didn't sell alcohol! Bah! We crammed into the elevator and got to the main observation deck, only to be greeted by even mor crowds, plus a great 360 view of Tokyo. The city is a monster! It is absolutely sprawling. From every direction we could see endless buildings and lights. I couldn't tell where the city ended because it stretched out so far. I think Tokyo is the biggest city I've ever been in, and it's crazy considering it's on a small island the size of California. It's also interesting that Tokyo (at least to me) doesn't have a definitive skyline. It's just... big. I love that in San Francisco I can identify most of the major buildings downtown, and even cities I am not that familiar with, like Chicago or NYC, I can tell which buildings are which too. But again, Tokyo is just... big! We decided to chill a little bit at the cafe with (what else) more biiru, and then take the stairs down to avoid more lines. Then it was off to the ishiyaki restaurant in Ikebukuro!

When we got off the train station at Ikebukuro, it was clear that some parade/celebration had just ended. I was slightly bummed that we had missed it, as I'm sure it would have been a cool experience, but my hunger drowned out any concerns for that, and I started to get grumpy again. (See a pattern? Hungry = Grumpy. I'm like a baby.) But we were able to find this small ishiyaki place called Issian, which was an amazing find. If you are ever in Tokyo, you must check it out! Ishiyaki is where you cook your food on a hot stone. We ordered a variety of different things, but the things that really stood out to me were the beef (mmmmmm, fatty and melty) and the maguro tuna. We also ordered really delcious sake, probably the best I've ever tasted, which was serve to us in a really cool bamboo sake container. Definitely going to have to invest in one of those!

 With happy bellies, we decided to go back to home and end the day on a really high note.

Day 4
Sushi Breakfast, Tokyo Dome City Attractions, Akihabara, Ninja Restaurant, and Roppongi

This day was probably my favorite day. No wet shoes, lots of fun rides, and ridiculous good food throughout the day.

We started out with sushi for breakfast. They had the most amazing fatty tuna that melted on your tongue. I could have eaten a whole pound of it! They also had the most amazing salmon that melted almost as well on your tongue. The mackerel and snow crab were also pretty tasty. But then we made the mistake of ordering the sea bass and the amberjack. We couldn't tell which was which; they were practially identical! So we each took one and popped it in our mouths, hoping for the same melt-in-your-mouth experience as before. No. No, no, no, no, no, no, no. Nononono. The flavor was fine, but the texture was so chewy (not like the rubbery chewy of octopus or squid, but like the chewiness of raw chicken) that about three chews into it, I knew it was bad news bears. I looked over at Dan, who was also giving me the side eye and then I saw him gag, which made me gag, and I couldn't continue chewing for fear of barfing or choking to death. I had to cover my face with the menu and force myself to swallow everything nearly whole! My eyes watering, I looked at Dan, and he looked exactly as I felt. "That was terrible," I said, and he agreed, but now we had 2 pieces left and I had lost my appetite. But I didn't want to leave it! That was rude, right? I decided to try to be brave and eat a second piece. Dan told me I was crazy, which I knew was true, but I had to at least try the other kind that I didn't have. Maybe, just maybe, it would be better? No. Again. No, no, no, no, no, no, no. Dan had to take a picture because I sat there very slowly chewing, debating on whether I should spit it out or just swallow it. But my tongue didn't want to swallow it, so Dan had to count down for me. "1...2...3!" Gulp. Gone. Done. Never again!

With breakfast sushi out of the way (we decided to cleanse our palettes with some morning Haagen-Dazs), we headed to Tokyo Dome City Attractions. This is the small amusement park right outside the Tokyo Dome, where the Tokyo Giants play. It has the sixth largest roller coaster drop in the world, the suggestively named Thunder Dolphin. We rode that twice, alone with a spinning coaster that unpredictably spins with each crazy turn. We did the world's first suspended roller coaster (like Top Gun at Great America, but shorter), the parachute ride, a water ride, and I dragged a reluctant Dan on a ride called The Dive, where you shoot at aliens from a rotating space pod. The lines were far more tolerable than anything you'd see at Disneyland, which I think is worth the tradeoff of not having the really cool surroundings. There was also some kind of weird costume thing going on while we were there. I'm not really sure if it was an official occasion, or if people just liked dressing up for no reason, but many of the Japanese people were decked out in elaborate costumes and having personal photo shoots complete with weird poses and reflector screens. Maybe it was just a Japanese thing? At any rate, it was interesting to see and now I know that Americans' ideas of costumes suck in comparison!

After the super fun times at TDCA, we took the train out to Akihabara to check out the famous electronics stores and the strange costumes. The area wasn't as impressively crazy as I'd heard, but maybe it's because we had already seen our dose of strangely costumed people walking around. It was definitely full of anime porn, though. Maybe that was Akihabara's appearl? Not sure. We didn't have time to explore too much, though, because we had to make it to our reservations at the Ninja restaurant, which I had been looking forward to for a while!

The Ninja was located south of Shinjuku in Akasaka. It was situated in a quieter part of town and the door was hidden against an unassuming wall, just as a true ninja establishment should be. The man outside was waiting for us like a real  ninja. As we approached, he said, "Erica-san?" Yes! How did he know? Ninja magic!

We had to go through "Ninja Training" to get to our seats. Our ninja guide led us through a hidden door and down a dark tunnel. Our ninja task was to call out to a ninja to lower a bridge that took us over all these treasures. Apparently we passed ninja training because we were allowed to go to our seats, which was inside what looked like a chamber. Maybe it was a ninja interrogation room? We ordered so many amazing things: eel nigiri topped with Camembert, French onion miso soup, grilled lobster in black bean sauce, garlic steak with fingerling potatoes, roast lamb, monja akasaka and duck, plus sake (in another cool bamboo container) and beer! No, it was not cheap! But it came with a ninja magic show, where I was really blown away. A ninja came into our chamber and did a bunch of slight of hand tricks, and even though he was right in front of my face, I have no idea how he could have possibly done any of those tricks! One of the most amazing ones involved me signing a playing card, and somehow that card ended up folded up inside a tiny box I was holding. What the WHAT! So that alone was worth at least a few thousand yen. :-) After dinner we got to go out the secret ninja shortcut! It was definitely a fun and delicious experience.

For the first time, we were awake enough to do something after dinner. Dan really wanted to check out the nightlife in Roppongi, but since the trains stop running around midnight, we had to make sure we didn't have *too* much fun out there. We stopped by a combini and picked up a beer, then found a set of stairs across from a cool multicolor-lit building and split the beer. We wandered a bit before deciding on one more street beer. Things started getting a bit fuzzy from there, and then we decided to head into a restaurant for even more beer and sake.
When we finally left, it was pretty late, and I think we had gotten on the last train home because when we made it to the transfer station, there were no more trains. Good thing we had my iPhone, because we were able to navigate in the general direction of the hotel. I remember walking through an empty corridor and singing The Little Mermaid songs at the top of my longs and absolutely loving the acoustics. We managed to catch a cab home, and then it was definitely passing out time! I was so tired, but I guess all the alcohol had the opposite effect on Dan, and he stayed up a bit later and had a party with Ronald McDonald.

Day 5
Packing Up

I woke up to Dan shifting around and it was still dark, and he pointed out that the sun was starting to rise. I was too groggy to be admiring, so I took a quick picture to appreciate for later, and fell back asleep. When I was finally up for real, I decided it was time to write a bit in our journal, so we wrote a couple short things to each other before it was time to pack up and go. Even though our flights was in the afternoon (his at 1:30, mine at 1:05), we were at different airports and knew we had to be there early, so we had to leave by around 9:30. That was just enough time for us to pack and try to get more money and then say goodbye at the train station.
We were all packed, and I felt that impending doom feeling that I felt when I had to say goodbye at San Francisco. Doom isn't really the right word, but it's the best way to describe that hallow feeling in your tummy when you anticipate having to do something really crappy. But I know in the back of my head things are always going to end up fine, and actually this impending doom feeling wasn't as heavy as the one I felt 2 months ago for several reasons. First, I didn't just leave an incredibly big mess for Dan to have to clean up at home. Second, I am more prepared this time, both mentally and physically. I'm packed (not frantically), and we got to have a couple hours of actual rest and chilling together (not frantically searching the house for items I may have forgotten and running off 30 minutes of sleep and not even getting to hug each other for real amid all the chaos). Plus, the 2 months of not seeing each other haven't been as painful as I psyched myself up for, and now that I have a new netbook with a camera, video Skyping is possible! Ahem. Hint.

So all in all, it was a wonderful trip, and I can't wait to be back home December 17!
 
I am fully aware of how long it's been since I've posted! Am I a terrible person? Well, probably a little, but not because of the lack of blog posts. I've just been busy and overwhelmed. Work isn't exactly that busy, but I have been trying to be social, explore the city, take care of some business on the home front, and keep my apartment and desks (I have 3!) organized. So far I'm not succeeding in the latter part, but since I'm pretty far right-brained, this should't come as a shock to you at all.

Things I promise to go into more detail about:
- sushi party (done... see below)
- rafting and canyoning in Shikoku
- salsa dancing at Faces
- Asahi brewery tour and sake festival (in the rain)
- feeling like a total rock star in elementary school

I'll date each entry in the order that they occured so that you can truly feel like you are there with me.

Things I might go into detail about if I really feel like it:
- early 90's fashion making a comeback in Japan
- don katsu is the devil, or maybe the greatest angel in disguise
- finally turning the AC off
- effin' mosquitos
- Stage 2

 
This weekend was spent on the Yoshino river having a happy time at Happy Raft! 

We left Friday night in rented minivans from Sogoundokoen station. The only person I vaguely knew was Kyle, a fellow Kobe JET. The other JETS were from Hyogo and beyond. Since we were leaving at around midnight, it meant that it was sleepy time in the cars until we got there. Shikoku is an island about 4 hours south of  Kobe, so the plan was to get there and keep sleeping until around 8. It would not only save us a stay in an expensive lodge, but it would also save toll to travel in the middle of the night.


I slept pretty soundly until the sun came up, then I tossed and turned in my minivan seat until everyone else woke up. The first day was a full day of rafting. I was in a raft with 5 others: Kyle, Takeshi, Erica (too!), Emily, and Adina. Aside from being very beautiful and picturesque, the river is cold! No surprise here, but it was just colder than I had expected it to be, considering it is somewhat shallow this time of year and we just got through what was said to have been one of the hottest summers in recent history. 


The raft was guided by Adam, whose nickname at Happy Raft is Smeagol. Was it cuz he wasn't very tall, or because he was from New Zealand, or because he was mostly naked except for a loincloth? (I made that last part up.) We went down several different rapids and even got to "surf" the rapids, where Adam intentionally guided us into the falls and we got dumped on repeatedly and I got both ears full of water. There were all sorts of other antics going on too, including pulling each other out of passing boats, intentionally flipping is off the sides, jumping off rocks, and "riding the bull." The lunch included one of the best tuna sandwiches I've ever had, served on a bagel none like I've had anywhere else. I've tried to find bagels in Japan since then, and had no luck.  So the first day was exhausting but really fun, and I ended it feeling extra happy.


That evening, everyone else went to stay at a lodge 40 minutes away. I had decided to camp, not only to save money, but because I love camping and was told it would be on a nice cushiony field. Nope, it was just a gravel parking lot! I was also under the impression that other people would be camping too, but when I woke up from my post-rafting nap, I discovered that I was the only one in the gravel lot. Alone. By a river. At night. Deliverance, anyone? Thankfully Japan is a really safe place, and if I had to, I could scream for the people at the rafting place, or use my pretend kung-fu skills. Just in case, I had my iPhone programmed with 1-1-9, the emergency number in Japan. Oh, did I mention that I forgot my sleep sack in Kobe, so I was essentially sleeping inside a bare tent with just a pillow and track pants and a sweatshirt to keep me warm? Luckily I can basically sleep anywhere, and I was glad to be at Happy Raft in the morning because I got first dibs on the fresh hot green tea. Plus, I woke up to the beautiful view of the river below me!


Day two was our canyoning day. The same people from my raft did canyoning in the morning. It was a series of sliding down waterfalls, ziplining, swimming, cannonballing, jumping, and general awesomeness. I wish it could have lasted all day! We had to double up our wetsuits because the water up high was even colder than the river. In all honesty, the half day of canyoning was more fun than the full day of rafting! It was also very cool to be in a forest and really feel like we were on some kind of ninja safari (cuz we looked like ninjas in our little outfits!)


After canyoning, we changed into to dry clothes, took down my tent, and then headed home!
On our way we had to stop to get some of Shikoku's famed udon. It was yummy, not surprisingly! Then it was time for more naps, and we were on our way.


If anyone wants to go canyoning when next season opens in July, let me know!
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